Fashion
Encitement took centre stage at Tom Ford’s SS27 show presented at Paris Fashion Week, with Haider Ackermann embracing a more daring approach to the house’s signature style. Staged on a mirror-lined runway, the collection felt confident and playful, reflecting the designer’s growing ease at the house. Ackermann spoke of wanting to introduce a sense of danger, eccentricity and decadence, with freedom and ease of his vision.
Sharp tailoring remained the foundation of the collection, but this season, there was a little wear beneath it. Jackets and coats were left open over bare skin, from a pinstripe blazers adorned with a red rose brooch pinned on a welt pocket. A camel double-breasted blazer hanging on one shoulder and an olive jacket paired with high-waisted jeans. Leather featured prominently throughout, taking shape in biker jackets, belted trenches, and halter tops. Ackermann also introduced swimwear to the house for the first time, while cut-outs and a sculptural moulded rubber bustier added further dimension.
Eveningwear leaned into the deep reds synonymous with Tom Ford’s iconic lipsticks. Silky gowns slipped off one of the shoulders to reveal padded satin bra tops. The silhouettes balanced sensuality with a sense of precision, allowing the construction to speak for itself.
Colour appeared in unexpected ways, from a powder blue suede trench and olive emerging from zip-front jumpsuits to belted trenches. Flared trousers and relaxed silhouettes brought a subtle 1970s influence. The design of the collection was dominantly focused on precise cuts, clean lines and the interplay of textures.
With SS27, Ackermann tapped into the alluring spirit of Tom Ford while bringing a more instinctive sense of freedom to the house. The collection was unapologetically sensual, balancing sharp tailoring and play on exposure.
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