Neon signs and festoon lights jam with Crazy Rich Asians Mandopop in this big and busy diner. It’s a peek into the playful mind of chef Junda Khoo. A snack of pai tee raises the curtain further. Traditionally a tall tartlet, it’s presented with two paths to deliciousness: pile warm stir-fried radish into the tart shell, or go rogue with a lettuce wrap
Either way, funky sambal belachan, one of 10 in the kitchen’s arsenal, is mandatory. The menu lists plenty of textbook Malaysian dishes – Hainanese chicken, salted egg squid – but Khoo always flips the script. Char kway teow is a kaleidoscope of crisped-up fish cake, pleasantly chewy noodles, sweet lap cheong and smoky lard, each element shining.
Dry-aged roast duck brushed with soy and the flavours of Hainanese chicken rice is regally presented with pancakes, five-spice and hoisin sauce: a modern Malay take on Peking duck.
Good to know: Book after 8pm for $13 mains and $9 sides.
Disclaimer : This story is auto aggregated by a computer programme and has not been created or edited by DOWNTHENEWS. Publisher: www.smh.com.au
