Tastemaker Neale Whitaker’s list of favourite restaurants brims with old (and new) icons

Neale Whitaker knows a thing or two about good taste. The British-born former magazine editor moved to Australia in 1999 and has made a living from it, formerly as Delicious, Vogue Living and Belle editor, and currently as a judge on Channel Seven’s home renovation show, My Reno Rules, where the interior design expert’s opinion can help make or break home-styling trends around the country.

Whitaker has called the NSW town of Berry home since 2018, where he and life partner and former chef David Novak-Piper and their two dogs, Terry and Graham, recently moved into a new weatherboard property.

“It’s a great community and we love being here,” he says. “Berry is just 10 kilometres from the ocean at Shoalhaven Heads and it’s less than a two-hour drive from Sydney.”

Whitaker shares his food favourites, at home in Berry and further afield.

Eating out

My favourite hometown restaurant (and go-to-dish)

South on Albany in Berry is a local landmark. You can always taste the passion in John Evans and Sonia Greig’s food. The menu changes weekly but I can never go past the local oysters followed by pan-roasted snapper with kipfler potatoes, green beans, spinach and a buttery, citrus sauce.

You’ll often find us at The Great Southern Hotel. David and I will sit on verandah with the dogs. My favourite is the spinach, feta and chickpea pie, while David usually opts for the classic, but very superior, chicken schnitzel.

My favourite hometown cafe and bar, and go-to orders

Berry is a village of great cafes. We’re spoilt for choice. Milkwood Bakery always feel like Berry’s culinary heart — the queues move as quickly as the incredible sourdoughs, cakes and pastries, but IV Coffee is great for a latte and a chat. IV owner Nick has recently opened Le Bar across the street which is a laid-back spot for an aperitivo. It has an impressive zero-alcohol list, too.

My favourite places to eat in Australia

My 27 years in Australia – and counting – have been punctuated with amazing food. When I moved to Sydney from London in 1999 to launch Delicious magazine, Australia was going through a food revolution, one that the whole world was witnessing.

I have special food memories at [Sydney’s] Rockpool, Bather’s Pavilion, Bistro Moncur, MG Garage and Billy Kwong, and [Melbourne’s] Grossi Florentino, Stokehouse, Cutler & Co, Ezard and plenty more besides. The Hall of Fame goes on and on. But these days, my favourite place to eat in Australia is anywhere David and I can sit outside in the sunshine with our dogs, Teddy and Graham.

On the road

Favourite food city

Melbourne. My publishing career required me to call Sydney home, but Melbourne has always been my first love. It’s a city that I always feel incredibly at home in. As a Londoner, I feel more Melburnian than Sydneysider, if that makes sense.

I first visited Melbourne in 1999 and was immediately smitten. I still feel like that almost three decades later. Don’t get me wrong, I love Sydney too, but there’s something about Melbourne’s food, cafes, culture, creativity and, of course, its people. It’s a special place.

Favourite spots in Melbourne

For many years Coda on Flinders Lane was my go-to. I probably ate everything on the Coda menu, but particular favourites were always the stuffed betel leaves (crispy tapioca and prawn betel leaves with makrut lime and green chilli) and whatever fragrant curry was on the menu. I remember delicious rendangs and Javanese duck curry. I ate more meat in those days.

These days I’ve added Marion in Fitzroy and Bistra in Carlton to my list. I first dined at Bistra soon after it opened in 2024, on a like-minded friend’s recommendation. I’ve been back several times since. The well-edited menu changes constantly, but the Sommerlad chicken and Bistra cheeseburger with dill pickle and fries are regulars. I also love the crumbed eggplant with buffalo mozzarella and anchovy and the date and custard tart. I guess you’d call it elevated bistro food, beautifully presented.

I’m always at Rustica in South Yarra for morning coffee. I will always go for the house-made granola with blueberry compote, fresh fruit and Greek yoghurt. For lunch, it’s Marion for pan-seared Dory with agrodolce and rocket. I also love Embla for their zucchini, pine nut and parmesan campanella. I will also order takeaway from Miss Chu, it’s always good.

Where I stay in Melbourne

Melbourne was always Australia’s boutique hotel capital. The Adelphi, The Lindrum, The Royce, The Lyall, The Hatton. I’ve stayed at them all over the years. I even designed my own mini suite at Ovolo Laneways in the city. Most recently I’ve enjoyed the StandardX in Fitzroy and I still love QT Melbourne.

My favourite spots in Sydney

The cafe I love to go to is A.P. House in Surry Hills for a coffee and a pastry. The selection is out of this world. I don’t have any favourites, just whatever talks to me on the day.

It’s lunch at Bar Copains in Surry Hills for chickpea panisse with green garlic sauce or a King George whiting sandwich. I also like to go to Bambini Trust Restaurant & Wine Room for a dish of Bambini spaghettini with Spencer Gulf king prawns, chilli and garlic. When in need of a takeaway meal, it’s Maggie’s Thai in Erskineville.

Eating In

Signature dish and go-to at home

I love food and always have, but I’m not the cook. That well-deserved honour goes to my partner, David. He was the chef at Sydney’s legendary Zigolini’s in the ’90s and has cooked for both of us almost daily since 2003.

Our go-to meals are whatever’s fresh, seasonal and simple, but when David really wants to spoil, it’s a classic coulibiac [fish pie] with salmon, spinach, hard-boiled egg and caramelised onions wrapped in puff pastry.

My guilty pleasure

Since giving up alcohol more than three years ago, I’ve developed a very sweet tooth. I consume an indecent number of lemon yoghurt cakes from our brilliant local bakery in Berry.

Best kitchen wisdom I cling to

Leave it up to David.

My Reno Rules premieres on Tuesday, April 21 at 7.30pm on Seven and 7plus.