In 2016 a handful of respected restaurant pros backed themselves to do their own thing in a place the size of a back pocket, spray-painting “Liberty” over a previous tenant’s sign. They offered interesting booze, savvy service and alluring food that put the bow on the box.
The Age declared it hospitality “catnip”. But is it a restaurant-bar or bar-restaurant? Who cares when you’re perched at said bar with an ice-cold martini, or settled at a table for precisely cooked flank steak or plump goat’s cheese agnolotti in a verdant, buttery sauce?
Go a la carte or graze the set menu of greatest hits; perhaps a starter of Jerusalem artichoke, mushrooms and piquant pickled onions on freekeh in smoked buttermilk. Later, molten chocolate stout cake might be topped with sticky butterscotch and cream. The crew has evolved but, a decade on, Liberty remains a classic.
Must-order: The signature wholemeal sourdough flatbread with changing accompaniments.
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