An impressive entrance, through a luxuriously renovated historic hotel, sets the scene. Pale timbers, sheer curtains and warm neutral tones define the light-filled Babae, with an open kitchen as its surprisingly calm focal point. Executive chef Roy Rosenfeld channels his Michelin-starred training at California’s French Laundry and Spain’s Arzak into precise, artfully plated dishes.
A four-course lunch ($90) or seven-course dinner ($190) begins with a trio of “preludes”: creamy, pastry-encased mushroom parfait scattered with flowers, perhaps, or a rich golden gougere filled with tangy Long Paddock blue cheese. Western Plains pork loin pairs happily with Jerusalem artichokes done two ways: golden chips and earthy roasted halves.
Come dessert, it’s more is more. A crescent of creme fraiche-glazed pumpkin cake gets jazzed up with walnuts, nougatine, sultanas, bourbon gel and pumpkin anglaise sauce poured at the table. A well-priced wine list leans local, like the produce, rounding out this carefully composed regional discovery.
Good to know: Those arriving by train can book a complimentary transfer to Hotel Vera in a Porsche Taycan.
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