Suze

There’s genuine buzz about Suze. Online hoopla is focused on their cult dessert – a delicate tulumba donut, unexpectedly doused in a silky, umami-driven black garlic caramel. And the menu is packed with more where that came from: polished iterations of classics that take a turn into something left-field and a bit cool. You’ll struggle to find a better pork cutlet than this one, its delicate jus of fino sherry boosted with sage and anchovy. There’s usually excellent pasta, like silky casarecce under a jammy reduction of Jerusalem artichoke.

Peppy floor staff keep the vibes rolling, poised to support exploration of the eclectic wine list; perhaps a precise, mineral-driven Chalmeau aligote, just the ticket with your springy focaccia and fresh ricotta with olive oil and verjus-soaked figs. The pocket-sized dining room is all soft greys, impressionist oils and smooth jazz, up a flight of vertiginous stairs. The space is always packed, and everyone from Fitzroy matriarchs to sunglasses-inside party people seem thrilled to have snagged a seat.

Good to know: Streetside tables are perfection on sunny weekends – and they are reserved for walk-ins.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

Last visited: May 2026

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