Floor one of this Spring Street nesting doll does double duty: as an unconventional Greek diner first, and, from 10pm, as Melbourne Supper Club. No matter the hour, the wood-panelled room feels warm and intimate. Gossiping politicians and off-duty actors hunch over the expensive end of the weighty drinks list.
The Kafeneion touch translates to snappy Grecian wines like assyrtiko, plus cleverly tweaked cocktails such as the Cretan Old Fashioned, sweet with rakomelo, a honey- and herb-infused raki liqueur. The foil to all that top-notch booze is an unfussy menu. Swipe chunks of rustic bread through warm split-pea dip pumped up with garlic, capers and chilli.
Go easy on youvetsi, a comforting plate of orzo and slow-cooked chicken topped with snowy drifts of kefalotyri cheese – there’s still unmissable lamb shoulder and the unique finale of portokalopita, a syrupy orange cake made with delicate layers of filo pastry.
Good to know: You’ll still find a few Greek moments on the late-night menu, but you’ll also find party pies.
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