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Lunetta

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Anticipation builds as you leave the suburbs behind, climbing up the winding drive flanked by gums and bushland. The road levels out as you reach the summit of Red Hill, revealing a towering dodecagonshaped, spaceship-like structure. It’s a stunning setting for sure, the polished dining room boasting panoramic views over Canberra. But it’s chef Tristan Rebbettes’ modern Italian-leaning menu that captures the limelight.

A pretty textural snack of ocean trout rillettes delicately sandwiched between potato chips is a strong start, then wood-fired Goolwa pipis packing the gentle, persistent heat of fermented chilli and friggitelli peppers. Coal-crisped mackerel and zucchini are lifted with rich roasted-chicken cream, while maiale al latte (milk-braised Borrowdale pork belly in this case) comes silky-tender on saucy tomato fregola.

A quenelle of parsley sorbet, the herbaceous notes balanced with sweet diced pear, honeycomb and a jaunty meringue hat, caps off the refined offering, as dramatic and bewitching as the moon this fine diner is named after.

Good to know: Aperitivo hour at sunset, downstairs at Lunetta Trattoria, is also not to be missed.

Disclaimer : This story is auto aggregated by a computer programme and has not been created or edited by DOWNTHENEWS. Publisher: www.smh.com.au